19 Feb. 2010

Another busy day in Bhopal

Sanci, Udajkiri caves, pillar in Khambaba

Another archaeological site near Bhopal is Sanchi. Here are the oldest Buddhist stupas, which date back to Emperor Ashoka in the third century BC. They are virtually the oldest monuments of Indian art, not counting those of prehistoric times.

Stupas are monumental reliquaries. In Sanchi, there are reportedly two relics of the Buddha's disciples, and also subsequent teachers. The graves were funded by the merchants from the nearby Widiƛii. In addition there are numerous temples and monastic buildings.

In the blazing sun, we calmly watched the complicated stories told by the sculptures carved on the gates around each grave.

I was amused and somewhat surprised by some Indian tourists who wished to be photographed with me, this day after all, I wore no sari:))) we met some older couple, that recommended that next time we should visit Kerala.

After sightseeing we went to a museum, where there are very interesting pictures showing how Sanchi looked before the reconstruction. General Taylor, a man who has discovered this place in 1819 came here led by local rumors. The whole area was completely overgrown and in fact absorbed by the forest. Stupas looked like some hills of strange curved shapes.

The museum apart from the exhibition of photos houses also a bit chaotic collection of sculptures from all periods of the possible formation of building structures in Sanchi.

Next I asked our talkative (but unfortunately only in Hindi) driver to take us to the caves in Udajgiri. There hidden in the rock are little temples decorated with beautiful reliefs which tell the intricate mythology of Vishnu. Caves have been carved in the fifth century AD during the reign of Guptas. The most amazing chamber is showing the incarnation of Vishnu Waraha-boar, which saves the earth goddess Bhudewi. Another cave presents a dream of Vishnu.

Our driver turned out to be a photographer by vocation, he kept taking our camera from me shooting thousands of photos. He arranged a guide for us who opened all the caves and allowed us to enter everywhere. And so we were jumping from one rock to the other, looking into each hole.

The last stop this day, was Khambaba, where there is a stone pillar, a column called Heliodor. Built in 113 BC, it is dedicated to the father of Krishna by Heliodorus, a Greek envoy to Taxili, the capital of Ghandara. Local legends tied it with many other beliefs, and now it is a holy place where the faithful gather to celebrate puja.

Along the way, the driver bought us oranges and jambaras (guava), which are sold with a salty masala wrapped in newspaper, at roadside stalls. The fruit strengthened us, but we wanted to eat a true meal. Hence , on the way back we stopped again at Sanchi, for a dinner .

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